Beyond Brisket: Kansas City Travel Guide

Kansas City Historic District

This post is brought to you by Expedia.  All the recommendations and experiences below are my own.

Meal to meal is how I tend to travel. I'm always eager to stroll through art museums, wander in parks, and linger in coffee shops, but I also want to know, more urgently, where I'll be eating.

Traveling this way serves two purposes. First, and most practically, it keeps me nourished on the road when I'm not cooking in my own kitchen, and second, it allows me to get to know a town through what I experience on the plate.

Andrew and I found ourselves in Kansas City recently to attend his sister's wedding, so we decided to make the most of it and go on a mini food tour. Although our time was limited between wedding festivities and I didn't have the chance to do enough research for a full literary city guide, we ate well and discovered plenty of gems worth a visit when you find yourself in this charming midwestern town.

COFFEE

The Filling Station. Andrew went for the coffee, but I was lured by the juice bar and banana bread. The larger outpost on McGee Trafficway has more on the menu, but the smaller, drive-through option in Westport is in the same parking lot as Half Price Books, if you're looking for a place to browse for a gently used souvenir. 

“Timshel—‘Thou mayest’— that gives a choice. It might be the most important word in the world. That says the way is open. That throws it right back on a man. For if ‘Thou mayest’—it is also true that ‘Thou mayest not.’”
— John Steinbeck, East of Eden

Thou Mayest. Any coffee shop that takes its name from the pages of literature is a perfect literary destination. Built in 1904 and nestled where Kansas City's automotive businesses set up shop in the 1930's, the building is full of charm, as well as ample seating on two levels. You'll also find homemade pop tarts in the pastry case, and an upstairs patio for warm weather days. 

Oddly Correct Coffee Roasters. We didn't visit the storefront, but many of the city's top coffee shops brew Oddly Correct. If you'd like to check out the source, find them on Main Street in the Westport neighborhood.

FOOD

Bluestem Kitchen

Bluestem. With one free evening for dinner, we made it count. Chef Colby Garrelts and his wife Megan opened Bluestem in 2004, and the restaurant recently took home a James Beard Award for Best Midwestern Chef. The atmosphere is refined but cozy, and if you enjoy food as a spectator sport, the open kitchen is fun to keep an eye on.

The seasonal tasting menu was at its peak of summer freshness, including one of my favorite dishes of the evening, gazpacho consommé. A clear broth was poured over radishes, heirloom tomatoes, and herbs, offering a surprising lightness that tasted exactly like the thicker, pureed gazpacho's you often see this time of year. It was the most refreshing way to begin our meal that also included scallops with fresh pasta, seared brisket, and goat cheese foam for dessert. 

After finishing our five course menu, we walked up to the counter and thanked the chefs, which led to several barbecue recommendations (see below). 

Joe's Bar-B-Que. When in Rome, or in this case, Kansas City, it's worth seeking out a plate of ribs and brisket. When we asked Bluestem's chef's for their recommendations, Joe's was at the top of the list (followed by Gates). Once I accepted the reality that the barbecue sauce was filled with high fructose corn syrup, I loved the popular Z-Man sandwich, filled with tender brisket, provolone cheese, and onion rings. Shockingly, they have a vegetarian version with mushrooms, if you're so inclined!

Joe's Bar-B-Que, Kansas City
Brisket and ribs at Joe's, Kansas City

Smokin' Guns BBQ. Although we didn't eat here, it's worth mentioning for its competition style barbecue. When we picked Bluestem chef Andrew Longres's brain for recommendations, he also explained the differences between competition and restaurant style barbecue's, a great tip for any novice. Competition barbecue is developed to knock your socks off in one bite, because when it's being judged that's all you have to make an impression. For the average eater, this means it can be sweeter/saltier/bolder, so it's good to know the differences heading into a meal. Smokin' Guns is no stranger to accolades, and has taken home top prizes in national and global competitions.

Little Freshie. It's a coffee shop, lunch spot, and soda fountain all in one very small package. Tucked on a quiet tree-lined street in downtown's historic core, I couldn't resist trying a little bit of everything. First we enjoyed sandwiches at the windowsill, then ordered a snow cone (raspberry rose for me) and soda (banana cardamom for Andrew). They also sell an assortment of curated food magazines, chocolate bars, teas, greeting cards, and other goodies perfectly sized to tuck into your carry on for the trip home.

OTHER FINDS

American Jazz Museum. Kansas City's jazz scene began in the 1930s, and being fans we took the opportunity to walk the streets where Duke Ellington, Charlie Parker, and Count Basie played in local clubs (many of the original signs are on display inside the museum). The exhibit space is relatively small, but offers lots of great insights into the personal histories of jazz's famed musicians, and ample opportunities to listen to music and mix your own songs through interactive stations.

Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art. The stately building and surrounding grounds are worth admiring before you even step foot inside. With more than 35,000 works of art, there's something for everyone, and if you're looking to enjoy an afternoon glass of wine, the restaurant was designed to resemble a 15th century Italian courtyard.

Feast Magazine. While slurping my snow cone at Little Freshie, I opened a copy of Feast Magazine stacked at the edge of the counter. It was filled with quality restaurant recommendations, chef profiles, seasonal recipes, and stories about the midwest's local food culture. If you spot one, grab a copy to read!

City of Fountains. Kansas City is known for its fountains, so don't miss them scattered around the city! The first fountain was built in 1904, and the city is home to nearly 50 today.

When Writing Slips Away

Lately I've been paying more attention. Consciously so, because I've found it's one of the only ways to write anything.

If you're in the Right Brains Society, you'll recall this sentiment from my last letter, but I wanted to share some of it here, too, because it's fresh on my mind. Fresh, because I had stopped paying attention almost entirely for the better part of a year. A year! It had really been that long.

I learned a very long time ago that paying attention to my life is an essential ingredient to the writing I do, because without daily observation, potential stories, lessons, and insights are easily lost. Naturally, this was easier in college. There were fewer distractions, fewer responsibilities, and I often spent entire afternoons reading, writing, and pondering. What once took no effort at all now requires a decidedly conscious effort, and I'm emerging from a bit of a fog in this area.
 
I spent the past year working really hard at a new job, and although I do a lot of writing at said job, it’s not the same as what I do here. I was busy, and didn't often have energy to focus on my own work at the end of the day. Many times I thought of an idea but forgot to write it down (always a mistake).

This absence goes for cooking, too. I relied heavily on an arsenal of recipes I'd come to call my own, and my magazine and cookbook stacks grew taller before I had a chance to finish them and attempt something new. There was also this new development to contend with. 
 
Writing's absence didn’t bother me at first. I was fully aware that a new season in life was beginning, and I was prepared to face it head on. Then it caught up to me, and for the past few months I’ve felt the tugging. You might know what I mean. Just a small whisper in my spirit, nudging me back to the page, or at the very least to awareness of the small details that make up my day, and therefore my life.
 
Something I particularly enjoy about writing is the opportunity to translate my personal experiences a broader audience, making larger connections that others can relate to. The problem is, when I stop paying attention to everything (from how the kitchen sounds when I’m waiting for the tea kettle to boil, to how the sun feels on my face, to the conversation at the next table), I lose details that are ripe for picking. All can become a lesson, a story, even a glimmer of hope for myself and another.

But what good are we when writing slips away?

Back when I wrote poetry and when I needed to explain it to people, I often said "I think in poetry." This was the only way I could illustrate how my mind worked. When I saw a tree branch sway in the wind, or a bird running on the beach, or someone help an elderly woman across the street, lines would begin forming in my head.

Eventually, I started thinking less in poetry and more in food (which led to the wonderful launch of Eat This Poem; I started "thinking in recipes" by then), but paying attention was still a constant force in my life.

Then 2014 happened.
 
But as the old adage goes, absence makes the heart grow fonder, and I’m reclaiming my role as a writer with a new energy, realizing just how much content is available to us if we simply pay attention. Every. Single. Day.
 
Even when we’re not typing, cultivating our writing practice requires daily participation. We should see our life experiences, however mundane or extraordinary, as fuel for our work. We should notice everything. Here are a few ways to do it. 

Don’t worry about connections. It’s tempting to dismiss a thought because it’s incomplete, or you can’t think of anything profound to say. Don’t focus on the work to be done, just stay in the present. If you see something, if you’re inspired, if you think of a phrase or a line or a word, capture it.

Write it down. Whether you rely on a notebook or your iPhone, take notes regularly. I have several notes on my phone including “Recipe Ideas,” “Essay Topics” or simply “Thoughts." When something comes, I start writing. When I have time, I’ll go back and see what’s worth saving and what’s not.
 
Exercise. We’ve discussed the value of exercise at length. Walking, meditation, yoga, running… whatever gets your heart and mind working are important partners in your quest to observe the world around you. In the moment, walking can help you think through ideas and form illusive connections. When you’re not exercising, the benefits of training your brain to stay in the present will help fuel your creativity over the long-term.
 
Practice gratitude. Establishing a daily gratitude practice can encourage you to focus on the details. Rather than waiting until the end of the week or month when you might be prone to focus on bigger announcements (I’m grateful my sister got engaged, I’m grateful for my promotion, I’m grateful for dinner with friends), being grateful every day might sound like this instead: I’m grateful for the smell of jasmine tea, I’m grateful for toast, I’m grateful that my husband took the dog outside this morning, I’m grateful for the sound of the dishwasher after a dinner party, I'm grateful for sunshine on the patio.

Again, these details might not seem significant, but when you’re going about your day looking for things to be grateful for, you might be surprised how often those pieces of gratitude can set your mind on a thought pattern that might inspire you along the way.

If you're feeling overwhelmed (like I was a few months ago), take heart that at the very, very least, simply opening yourself up to paying attention and being mindful of the desire, is a step in the right direction.

You might not write an essay tomorrow or start a blog the next day, or write a book proposal next month. You might just be getting back into the swing of things. Wherever you are, it's a good place to be. Acknowledge it, watch it, and see what you discover.

Literary City Guide | Ashland, OR

Photo by Katrina Neill

Photo by Katrina Neill

First there was Corvallis, then came Portland, and today, Ashland joins Oregon's literary destinations.

Ashland sits just north of the California border, making it a favorite and frequent destination of tour guide Katrina Neill, who has been visiting since 2001 when she first made the trip with her book club. 

A hallmark of Ashland's literary scene is the annual Oregon Shakespeare Festival, and in between plays you can find plenty of cute coffee shops and eateries to enjoy.

Stop by to visit Ashland!