Anniversary Cake Part 1: Testing Recipes

For the past two weeks, I’ve secretly been making cake. Vanilla Buttermilk Cake with Lemon Curd and Fresh Raspberries, Iced with Swiss Buttercream to be exact. My parents celebrated their 30th anniversary today and I, with the help of one of my mom’s best friends, planned a surprise dinner for them at the Mission Inn last Sunday. And now that the party’s over, I can finally share my baking experiences, and everything I learned along the way.

The event took on many manifestations (including a blind wine tasting for 50 of their closest friends where I planned to make all the food) before we settled on an intimate dinner (at a restaurant, who would make the food for us) with just the immediate family. So, with no invitations to mail or appetizer menu’s to brainstorm, I thought of cake. Wedding cake, in particular, is one of my dad’s favorite guilty pleasures. At my own wedding, we made sure he had a special box to take home extra slices. Having never attempted a true wedding-style layer cake (thankfully, this time there were no dowels or tiers involved), I had to do some practicing.

There were a lot of firsts with this cake. First triple layer cake. First batch of Swiss Buttercream. First attempt at frosting a cake with my icing spatulas. I started by reading lots of recipes, watching videos, and generally getting a feel for the skills required to pull this off. Overall, nothing was a complete disaster. The biggest mistake I made was removing the layers  too quickly from their pan after baking. One layer broke in half with steam still rising from the center. The lesson? Let your cakes cool before transferring them anywhere. But with no one to impress just yet, the pressure was off. Plus, after smushing the layers back together, the break was undetectable.

The cake was moist, and its light flavor took the edge off the tart lemon curd and raspberries. I couldn’t have been happier. After my husband and I devoured our slice, I packed the rest up for him to take to work. The cake was finished before 9 am, and his colleagues prepared some thoughtful critiques after explaining it was a practice cake. The most common note was preferring more flavor in the buttercream. Personally, I thought the flavors were spot on, but I upped the vanilla by a ½ teaspoon in the final cake.

Next, tackling fondant…

Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes

Macaroni and Cheese. It's one of America's classic comfort foods, and comes in more varieties than I can count. And sometimes it's the subtle differences—whole grain or Dijon mustard, sour cream or Crème fraîche, sharp cheddar or mild cheddar, fusilli or penne—that make the biggest difference. You see the dilemma. But the solution, it turns out, is pretty easy: try them all. Only through the detailed (and delicious) trial and error method will I discover what I'm truly looking for in this dish. So let the games begin.

I made a Mac and Cheese version last fall with one of my favorite vegetables, cauliflower, and though it was perfectly acceptable, it wasn't entirely spot on. Too tangy, slightly expensive, and (gasp!), I'm not sure Mac and Cheese is the best place for cauliflower. I knew there were more recipes to try. Let me introduce you to the current front runner, Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes. This is absolutely, stick-to-your-ribs creamy, and the freshness of the tomatoes balances well with the cheese and soft noodles.

Baked Ziti with Roasted Tomatoes

Adapted from Martha Stewart Living

Recipe notes: Instead of measuring the cheese, I grated a heaping cup or so of each variety. For the breadcrumbs, I pulsed three slices of sandwich bread (crust and all) with about a cup of Italian-style breadcrumbs, then added melted butter (two tablespoons) and streamed in olive oil until the mixture was coated.

Ingredients

FOR PASTA
Coarse salt
pound pasta

FOR BREAD CRUMBS
3 slices sandwich bread
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Olive oil

FOR SAUCE AND CHEESE TOPPING
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for baking dishes
1/4 cup finely diced yellow onion
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 ounces Italian fontina cheese, grated (1/2 cup)
3 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated (1 cup), 1/3 cup reserved for topping
6 ounces extra-sharp white-cheddar cheese, grated (2 cups), 1/3 cup reserved for topping
2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (1 cup), 1/2 cup reserved for topping
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

FOR TOPPING
Slow-Roasted Tomato Slices (recipe below)
Thyme sprigs

Directions

1. Heat oven and boil pasta: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add salt generously and cook pasta 2 to 3 minutes less than manufacturer's instructions (the outside should be cooked but the inside underdone. Transfer to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

2. Meanwhile, make bread crumbs: Tear bread into large pieces and pulse a few times in a food processor to form very large crumbs. Transfer to a bowl, and add melted butter. Toss evenly to coat.

3. Prepare baking dishes: Butter eight 6-ounce shallow baking dishes or one 1 1/2-quart baking dish.

4. Make cheese sauce: Melt butter in a 4-quart pot over medium heat, add onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until bubbling but not browning, about 45 seconds. Add milk and whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer, stirring with a wooden spoon (scrape across the bottom and around edge of pot to prevent scorching), until thickened, about 4 minutes. Add fontina, 2/3 cup grated Gruyere, 1 2/3 cups grated cheddar, and 1/2 cup Parmigianno-Reggiano, stirring until completely melted and sauce is smooth. Season with salt and pepper, add cayenne and nutmeg, and stir to combine.

5. Assemble and add cheese topping: Add pasta to sauce and stir to thoroughly combine. Pour into prepared baking dishes and sprinkle evenly with the reserved cheeses, followed by the bread crumbs. If using, top with roasted tomato slices and thyme.

6. Bake: Place dishes on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until bubbling and cheese is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

Slow-Roasted Tomato Slices

Ingredients

6 small tomatoes, sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place tomato slices on rimmed baking sheets in a single layer. Drizzle with olive oil; season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with thyme leaves. Transfer to oven and roast until softened and browned in spots, about 20 minutes.

Whole Lemon Tart

Sometimes being a multi-tasker has its drawbacks. Like when you’re trying to half-bake a tart shell, and braise beef for dinner, and dust the living room, and do laundry, and listen to DVR playing in the background—things can go south quickly. Take this tart for instance.

The recipe is easy enough (bonus: it only takes one single lemon!), but since my Dutch oven (with the braised beef) took up most of the oven, I slid the pan on the lower rack but the tart shell didn't exactly brown evenly. Oh, and let's not forget that before I half-baked the shell, I poured the filling right in, yes, completely forgetting I omitted a step. Oops. I poured it back into a bowl, but the damage was (partially) done. Thank goodness for powdered sugar. Just cover the tart with it, and no one will ever know.

Side note: If you know anyone who's not a huge fan of lemons, try this with a Meyer. I'm telling you, it's a completely different experience: sweet and rich, minus the puckering feeling in your mouth.

Whole Lemon Tart
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen via Rollet-Pradier via Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets

1 partially baked 9-inch (24-cm) Great Unshrinkable Tart Shell (also via Smitten Kitchen, recipe below)
1 Meyer lemon lemon
1 1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch (I had run out, and substituted 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour for the cornstarch)
1 stick (4 ounces; 115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven 325°F (165°C). Line a trimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and put the tart shell on the sheet.

Slice the lemon into thin wedges, remove the seeds, and toss the lemon and sugar into the container of a blender or food processor. Blend or process, scraping down the sides of the container as needed, until the lemon is thoroughly pureed and blended with the sugar, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the mixture into a bowl and, using a whisk, gently stir in the whole egg and the yolk, followed by the cornstarch and melted butter. [I actually just use the food processor for this whole mixing part, beating the other ingredients in until smooth.] Pour the filling into the crust but be sure to leave 1/4 inch between the top of your filling and the top edge of your crust.

Slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake the tart for 20 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling, lightly browned and set. Don’t take the tart out until it is clearly set, however — you’re looking for a slight jiggliness with no suggestion of liquid underneath. Transfer the tart, still on the baking sheet, to a cooling rack and allow it to cool for at least 20 minutes before removing it from the pan. The tart is ready to be served when it reaches room temperature.

The Great Unshrinkable Sweet Tart Shell
Adapted from Dorie Greenspan

Makes enough for one 9-inch tart crust

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 tablespoons; 4 1/2 ounces) very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg

1. Pulse the flour, sugar and salt together in the bowl of a food processor. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in. (You’re looking for some pieces the size of oatmeal flakes and some the size of peas.) Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses–about 10 seconds each–until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change–heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate any dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing. Chill the dough, wrapped in plastic, for about 2 hours before rolling.

2. To roll the dough: Butter a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Roll out chilled dough on floured sheet of parchment paper to 12-inch round, lifting and turning dough occasionally to free from paper. (Alternately, you can roll this out between two pieces of plastic, though flour the dough a bit anyway.) Using paper as aid, turn dough into 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom; peel off paper. Seal any cracks in dough. Trim overhang to 1/2 inch. Fold overhang in, making double-thick sides. Pierce crust all over with fork.

Alternately, you can press the dough in as soon as it is processed: Press it evenly across the bottom and up the sides of the tart shell. You want to press hard enough that the pieces cling to one another, but not so hard that it loses its crumbly texture.

3. Freeze the crust for at least 30 minutes, preferably longer, before baking.

4. To fully or partially bake the crust: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter the shiny side of a piece of aluminum foil (or use nonstick foil) and fit the foil, buttered side down, tightly against the crust. And here is the very best part: Since you froze the crust, you can bake it without weights. Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake the crust for 20 to 25 minutes.

5. Carefully remove the foil. If the crust has puffed, press it down gently with the back of a spoon. Bake the crust about 10 minutes longer to fully bake it, or until it is firm and golden brown, brown being the important word: a pale crust doesn’t have a lot of flavor. (To partially bake it, only an additional 5 minutes is needed.) Transfer the pan to a rack and cool the crust to room temperature, and proceed with the rest of your recipe.

Do ahead: The dough can be wrapped and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 months. While the fully baked crust can be packed airtight and frozen for up to 2 months, the flavor will be fresher bake it directly from the freezer, already rolled out.

Perfect Cauliflower Soup

I tend to like almost everything that comes out of Tyler Florence’s kitchen. So when I turned to a beautiful photo of cauliflower soup in his cookbook, Tyler’s Ultimate, I didn’t think twice about making it as soon as possible. But let's just say things didn't work out. (I suppose I should preface with a note about how I still love Tyler and although I was disappointed with his soup, I’ve moved on.) So, on to the disaster.

Most soups begin by sautéing a base of onions, garlic, or other vegetables, then adding liquid, usually stock, and letting it bubble away. Tyler's recipe began by simmering cream, then adding the onions and cauliflower and boiling them until they were tender. Although a red flag was raised when the recipe for what looked to be a perfectly delicious soup called for an entire stick of butter and one quart of cream, I followed the recipe exactly. This resulted in a soup that looked nothing like the glossy photo in his cookbook. In fact, there was hardly a resemblance. Not to mention that the milk frothed like latte foam when I used my immersion blender. Oh, it was a sad evening.  While the flavors were certainly there (the scent of butter seeping into cream, infused with thyme, was almost heavenly), I couldn't bear to look into my Dutch oven.

I was ready to give up, but wanted to at least attempt saving it. I tried to thicken the mixture by adding shreds of French bread and letting them soften before pureeing the soup again. It helped, but the soup, I later reasoned, was beyond saving.

There was, however, one glistening beam of hope shining down from the fluorescent kitchen light: the topping of Tyler’s soup was perfect. A mixture of toasted bread crumbs, thyme, and reserved cauliflower florets provided the satisfying crunch I tend to look for with creamy soups. So, it wasn’t a complete disaster, but I vowed to fix the problem immediately by creating my own version of cauliflower soup that was thick, healthy, and wouldn’t make me want to cry.

I turned to my Potato and Leek soup as a starting point. I’ve made this soup often enough that I rely on memory when making it, and it always, always, is the perfect velvety consistency. I reduced the number of potatoes, added cauliflower and thyme, and miraculously managed to create my ideal soup experience, perfect for the rainy weather we’ve been having.

Perfect Cauliflower Soup

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 heads cauliflower, core removed and cut into florets
2 small russet potatoes, peeled and diced
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, sliced
Several sprigs thyme, bundled with a string
6-8 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Melt butter and olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally until onions are soft, about five minutes. Add chopped potatoes, cauliflower florets and thyme bundle to the pot. Add chicken stock until liquid just covers the vegetables. Bring soup to a boil, then cover and simmer over medium heat until the vegetables are tender, about ten to fifteen minutes.

2. Turn off heat and let soup cool for several minutes before pureeing. Using an immersion blender, puree mixture in 60-second intervals until lumps are removed. Add heavy cream, butter,  salt and pepper to taste and stir until combined.

3. To serve, return pot to low heat ten minutes before serving. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle with desired garnishes, a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.

Notes on garnishes: You have a lot of options for how to finish your soup. Here are a few suggestions

• Toasted breadcrumbs with thyme and pine nuts: In a small saucepan, toast breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and thyme leaves until brown and crisp


• Roasted cauliflower florets: You can roast these in the oven for 40 minutes at 400 degrees (dressed with olive oil, salt, and pepper) or saute in a bit of butter in a skillet


• If you have nothing else – chopped parsley!

Roasted Asparagus with Eggs

I know eggs are a treasured ingredient in the culinary world. People put them on everything: toast, tomato sauce, tortillas. I've just never seen what all the fuss is about. My egg memories are of Saturday mornings as a child, when my dad would make them sunny side up  in bacon grease and fold it into a buttered piece of toast. Delicious, yes. But I’m really not a breakfast person.

When Bon Appetit named eggs as one of the food trends of 2009, I dog-eared a couple of the recipes, but still haven’t come around to making them. Then I saw a recipe for roasted asparagus and eggs and something in my brain shifted. First, I had all of the ingredients at home – no extra trip to the store required. Second, aside from eggs, each ingredient has a permanent place in my kitchen (balsamic vinegar, Parmesan cheese, asparagus).


Oh. My. Goodness. The creamy yolk, sweet balsamic vinegar and salty Parmesan are just perfect together. I was convinced after one bite. I knew my husband would be hesitant to try it, but after his first bite, he too was surprised at how much he enjoyed it. We agreed it would be perfect with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and a salami and cheese platter, so come summer, you can bet we’ll be making this again for a light dinner on a warm evening. Actually, you could eat this meal for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. Just pick your favorite time of day, and  enjoy.

Roasted Asparagus and Eggs

Recipe courtesy Whole Living

1 medium thick asparagus bunch, tough ends removed
2 tablespoons olive oil
Coarse salt
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon light-brown sugar
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
4 large eggs
2 ounces shaved parmesan

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a baking sheet with a rim, toss asparagus with oil. Season with salt. Bake until asparagus is lightly browned and tender, 15 to 18 minutes (timing will vary depending upon thickness of asparagus).

2. In a small saucepan, cook balsamic vinegar and sugar over medium-high heat until syrupy and reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 6 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring a large skillet with 2 inches of water to a simmer over medium heat. Add cider vinegar and season with salt. Break one egg at a time into a cup, then tip cup into pan. Simmer until whites are set and yolks are soft but slightly set, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spatula, scoop out eggs one at a time and drain on paper towels. With a paring knife, trim edges.

4. Divide asparagus among four plates and drizzle with reduced balsamic. Top with shaved Parmesan and an egg.

Orecchiette with Broccoli

I tend to avoid frozen food at all cost, but people, it’s time to reconnect with the freezer section of your supermarket. Even though the main ingredient of this dish comes right out of a bag, it’s wonderful, mindlessly simple, and you can toss it together in the time it takes to cook the pasta.


Oh, and look, I managed to find orecchitte! With my one box of this not-always-in-stock pasta, I had to do something special. And when I flipped through the pages of January’s Gourmet and saw a bowl of this pasta, I knew this was it. The garlic and red pepper flakes (and of course, a large handful of Parmesan) really pull all the flavors together, and the “little ears” are perfect for scooping up bits of broccoli.


Orecchiette with Broccoli

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

5 garlic cloves
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 bag frozen chopped broccoli (16 oz; do not thaw!)
¾ cup water
¼ tsp. hot red-pepper flakes
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional for serving
1 lb. dried orecchiette pasta

Heat oil in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Grate garlic cloves into the oil and cook for 1 minute, until just beginning to turn golden.

Add broccoli, red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper, water, and cook covered, stirring occasionally, until broccoli is very tender, about 12-15 minutes. Stir in cheese until melted.

Meanwhile, cook pasta until al dente. Reserve one cup cooking water, then drain pasta.

Toss pasta with broccoli and ½ cup reserved pasta water. Season with salt.  Serve with cheese for sprinkling.

Kale Chips

In case you haven’t tired of kale this winter, this is a fun and easy way to eat your greens. With ten minutes of cooking time left, I slipped my hand in the oven and grabbed a small chip to test. As I took a bite, the chip crumbled in my mouth. I looked at the leaf in my hand and marveled at how the simple act of roasting leaves tossed with salt and pepper could result in such a simple but lovely appetizer. The flavor had a bit of heat – slightly spicy and warm in the back of your mouth, a touch of bitterness, and a soft crunch.


I was starting to think I’d eat them all even before they’d finished cooking and before I had a chance to snap a photo. I managed to stop myself from devouring them, but it was hard. They melt in your mouth and you’ll want more than one, so use a few bunches if cooking for a crowd.

It’s not laborious, fancy, and doesn’t require a long list of ingredients. Plus they look pretty standing tall for their portraits. I used Tuscan kale, which Bon Appetit explained is easiest to handle and quickest to cook, thanks to crinkled leaves that are smaller and more tender than leaves of curly kale.

Kale Chips
Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit

Ingredients

12 large Tuscan kale leaves, rinsed, dried, cut lengthwise in half, center ribs and stems removed
1 tablespoon olive oil

Preparation

Preheat oven to 250°F. Toss kale with oil in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange leaves in single layer on 2 large baking sheets. Bake until crisp, about 30 minutes for flat leaves and up to 33 minutes for wrinkled leaves. Transfer leaves to rack to cool.

Parmesan Pull-Aparts

Ever since I attempted to make French bagets about four months ago, bread has been my enemy in the kitchen. The three-day experiment was so unsuccessful that I didn’t even bother blogging about it, so I’m thrilled to post that I finally made bread and it wasn’t a disaster. In fact, it was melt-in-your-mouth fantastic. The yeast didn’t defeat me, and when I pulled the pan out of the oven with puffed, golden brown rolls, it was hard to contain my excitement.



Parmesan Pull-Aparts

Recipe courtesy Gourmet

2 teaspoons active dry yeast (from a 1/4-oz package)
1 teaspoon mild honey or sugar
2/3 cup warm milk (105–115°F), divided
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour plus 2 Tbsp for sprinkling
1 1/4 cups grated (with a rasp) Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 1/3 oz)
1 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into Tbsp pieces and softened
1 tablespoon water

Equipment:
A stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment

Stir together yeast, honey, and 1/3 cup warm milk in mixer bowl and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. (If mixture doesn't foam, start over with new yeast.) Whisk together flour (2 1/2 cups), cheese, and salt, then mix into yeast mixture along with remaining 1/3 cup warm milk at low speed. Increase speed to medium and beat in 2 eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat, scraping down side of bowl occasionally, until a very soft dough forms, about 3 minutes. Beat in butter, 1 Tbsp at a time, until dough is elastic, about 2 minutes. (Dough will be very sticky.)

Scrape dough into center of bowl and sprinkle with remaining 2 Tbsp flour. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a kitchen towel and let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch down dough (do not knead) and turn out onto a floured surface. Cut dough into 12 equal pieces and roll each into a ball by cupping your hand and pushing dough against work surface as you roll in a circular motion. Arrange rolls 1 inch apart in a buttered 9- by 2-inch round cake pan and cover with a kitchen towel (not terry cloth). Let dough rise in a draft-free place at warm room temperature until doubled and dough fills pan, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375°F with rack in middle.

Whisk together remaining egg with water and brush on tops of rolls. (You will have leftover egg wash.) Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Loosen edges of rolls from pan with a sharp knife and invert rolls onto a rack, then reinvert and cool at least 20 minutes.

Cooks’ note: Rolls are best the day they're made but can be frozen (cool completely, then wrap well) 1 month. Thaw, then reheat on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven until warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes.

La Bête Noire

Translation: The Black Beast. Based on the name alone, I knew this decadent chocolate cake would be an ideal finish to our Valentine’s Day dinner (see post below). Flourless chocolate cake is one of my all time favorite desserts. The texture is dense, closer to fudge, and you will only need a few bites to feel satisfied.


La Bête Noire

Bon Appétit |  September 2006

by Jason Aronen

Cake

1 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, diced
18 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped
6 large eggs

Ganache

1 cup heavy whipping cream
8 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped

Preparation

For cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 10-inch-diameter springform pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment round; butter parchment. Wrap 3 layers of heavy-duty foil around outside of pan, bringing foil to top of rim. Combine 1 cup water and sugar in small saucepan. Bring to boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Melt butter in large saucepan over low heat. Add chocolate and whisk until smooth. Whisk sugar syrup into chocolate; cool slightly. Add eggs to chocolate mixture and whisk until well blended. Pour batter into prepared pan. Place cake pan in large roasting pan. Add enough hot water to roasting pan to come halfway up sides of cake pan.

Bake cake until center no longer moves when pan is gently shaken, about 50 minutes. Remove from water bath; transfer to rack. Cool completely in pan.

For ganache:
Bring whipping cream to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and whisk until smooth. Pour over top of cake still in pan. Gently shake pan to distribute ganache evenly over top of cake. Refrigerate cake in pan until ganache is set, about 2 hours. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.

Run knife around pan sides to loosen cake; release sides. Cut cake into wedges and serve with whipped cream, if desired.

Roasted Filet Mignon with Cauliflower Puree + Wine Resolutions #5 and #20

For busy holidays, we like to stay in and cook a great meal (see recent New Year’s post). This Valentine’s Day, we decided to bring the restaurant to our kitchen and serve grilled filet with French fries. (More about dessert coming soon – but I’ll give you a hint: chocolate, chocolate and chocolate.) The wine fulfilled Wine Resolutions #5 and #20: Take notes on a fine wine from beginning to end, and shatter your price limit.

We chose Sunstone’s 2005 Eros, a merlot and cabernet blend. We’ve had this wine before, at the vineyard, where they served a taste alongside chocolate. I’m going to say this shattered our price limit, but have to confess that while technically this is a $58 bottle of wine (the most we’ve spent in recent years is around $34), we found the same wine on a shelf in Cost Plus for a mere $29.99. We actually had to look at the label to be sure it was correct. But there it was, a bottle of Eros half off, and you didn’t have to twist our arm to buy it.

So, on to the wine. A smell just after opening the bottle revealed aromas of blackberry and spice, and the taste was slightly peppery. But just twenty minutes later, it smelled and tasted like a different wine. It smelled sweeter, like plum, and the pepper was milder on the palate, only hitting your taste buds at the end. It went perfectly with our filet, and during dinner we marveled at how this little experiment revealed so much about how wines develop.

Roasted Filet Mignon with Cauliflower Puree

Recipe inspired by Ariane Duarte (Top Chef) and Tyler Florence

Ingredients

For beef
2 filet mignon steaks
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. butter
Fresh Italian parsley, chopped (for garnish)

For puree
1 head cauliflower, cut into 1-inch florets
1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups heavy cream
4 tbsp. butter
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 sprigs thyme

Directions

For the puree:
Place all ingredients in a medium sized pot.  Add enough water to just cover vegetables. Let everything come to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer for about 35 minutes, until everything is soft.

Discard thyme. Put mixture into a food processor and puree until smooth. Add butter one tablespoon at a time, then cream as necessary. Continue pureeing until smooth. Season with more salt and pepper.  To keep warm, place puree into a large glass bowl over a pot of boiling water.

For the beef:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Season both sides of filet with salt and pepper. In a medium sauté pan, add olive oil and butter over medium high heat. Sear each side for three minutes, then put the pan in the oven and roast until the meat is medium-rare, about 9-10 minutes.  Set meat aside to rest before slicing.

To serve, place some puree on each plate, then place sliced filet on top.  Garnish with parsley, if desired.

Risotto with Red Wine and Mushrooms

Oh, risotto. Creamy, subtle, and comforting. It might be the world’s perfect meal. Like soup, it warms you from the inside out, and is adaptable to endless flavor combinations. Tonight was the first time I used red wine, resulting in a beautiful, deep lavender color. Sliced mushrooms add heartiness, and combined with a good handful of Parmesan cheese, it was absolutely lovely. I’ve always wanted to try risotto balls – the fried dumplings using leftover risotto, but we never seem to have anything left.


One of the biggest misconceptions (stated by Mario Batali himself in this video), is that risotto must be constantly stirred. I gave into the myth for years, but tonight, my risotto was made with minimal stirring and it still turned out wonderfully. Mario serves his “almost soupy,” as he puts it. That is, when you spoon risotto onto a plate, it moves around, and the rice is suspended in the starchy broth.


Risotto with Red Wine and Mushrooms

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, diced
2 medium Portobello mushrooms, thinly sliced
2 cups Arborio rice
2/3 cup red wine
8 cups chicken stock
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for sprinkling
Fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

Directions

Bring broth to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Add the mushrooms and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove mushrooms with a slotted spoon and set aside. Keep the broth warm over very low heat. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until softened and translucent but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until toasted and opaque, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the wine to the toasting rice, and then add a ladle of stock and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed. Add several ladles of stock (enough to just cover the rice) and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is mostly absorbed. Continue adding stock until rice is tender and creamy, about 20-25 minutes. Stir in the butter and cheese until well mixed. Add mushrooms and stir gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Rustic Canyon’s Cranberry Orange Ricotta Cake

Since relocating to Los Angeles in September, I haven’t spent many evenings dining out. Aside from the two weeks of forced exile to eateries because of a broken fridge, my recent dinner at Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen in Santa Monica was our first real night out in a few months. It was a night where reservations were made after several restaurants were carefully considered before settling on Rustic Canyon, and I was genuinely looking forward to it.


Rustic Canyon appealed to me because of its emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients (they shop at the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market) and, based on their website and online reviews, what seemed to be a commitment to simple, quality food. 

Bouchon, my favorite restaurant in Santa Barbara, follows a similar method of using Farmer’s Market fare. Once we arrived for dinner at Bouchon at 5:30 and ordered a scallop appetizer – one of the last the kitchen had available that night. When they run out of the good stuff, it’s gone.

So, it’s safe to say my expectations were high. While I love to cook at home, I’m usually overcome with giddiness at the thought of a night out at a really, really good restaurant. It’s my chance to order food I don’t normally make at home, try wines I don’t usually buy. I should also mention that I crossed out Wine Resolution #17: Try a wine you think you don't like. Blame it on Sideways, but Merlot sales went downhill when that movie became popular. I drank Merlot only when it was offered at tastings, but tonight I took the advice of our server and paired a Napa Merlot with my scallops. I'm happy to say I was not at all disappointed.

Side note: I don’t tend to take pictures in restaurants. While part of me is dying to capture the moment, another, more pronounced part says no, don’t interrupt the moment with a flash that causes other diner’s to look your way, or incessant plate spinning for just the right angle. I can’t do it. But check out the link above. Their food is as clean and inviting as their website.

We started with artichoke ravioli, which was good, but not overly exciting. Then my scallops arrived, perfectly browned on both sides with a celery root puree and red wine reduction. The next fifteen minutes were blissful as I savored every bite. You might be wondering where the cake comes in. I stumbled upon the recipe in the LA Times during my Google-research phase and was thrilled to see that it was on the menu the night we went. (We also ordered the donuts with dark chocolate sauce – an absolute must if you visit.)

The restaurant version was as I expected – moist and the perfect combination of sweetness and tartness. It was especially nice when paired with a small bite of cool vanilla bean ice cream. When I made it at home, the friends I had over noted its versatility – perfect for breakfast, brunch an afternoon snack, and a great alternative to Pumpkin Pie for Thanksgiving. It seems this cake can be eaten at any time of day, and for any occasion, making it a great recipe to keep in your files when you need something just right.

Rustic Canyon’s Cranberry Orange Ricotta Cake

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Servings: 18

Adapted from pastry chef Zoe Nathan of Rustic Canyon

2 cups flour
1 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 eggs
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) butter
1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 1/4 teaspoons salt
Zest of 1 orange
2 cups ricotta cheese
2 1/2 cups cranberries, divided

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-inch round by 3-inch tall cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, maple syrup, oil and vanilla. Set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, cream together the butter, 1 1/2 cups sugar, salt and zest. Mix just until thoroughly combined; do not overmix.
4. With the mixer running, slowly incorporate the egg mixture into the butter just until combined.
5. With the mixer on low speed, add one-half of the flour mixture to the batter and quickly mix for 5 seconds. Turn off the mixer and add the rest of the flour, the ricotta and one-half of the cranberries. Mix the remaining ingredients into the batter over low speed just until combined, being careful not to overmix.
6. Gently pour the batter into the cake pan and smooth the top. Scatter the remaining cranberries over the top of the cake, and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.
7. Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted comes out clean, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Place a loose piece of foil over the top of the cake if it starts to darken. Cool the cake on a wire rack before removing it from the pan.

Rosemary White Bean Soup

One of the first soups I made at home and fell in love with was white bean soup. It was also the first soup I made with my immersion blender, which I’ve already plugged on this site. I’m telling you, if you love soup, you simply must have this gadget.


Paired with woody rosemary, this creamy, simple soup is always satisfying, and very straightforward to make. I’ve tried several variations over the years. Some recipes called for basil instead of rosemary, others lacked cream, and some soups skipped pureeing altogether and left the beans in tact to mingle with wilted greens suspended in broth. As enthusiastic as I initially was about these soups, I always went back to rosemary, and essentially the easiest preparation which I have found to be the most luxurious and delicious. Why mess with a good thing?

Cooking notes: With the liquid to vegetable ratio, I tend to add enough liquid to just cover the ingredients that I’m leaving to boil. I find this method usually results in an ideal consistency when it comes time to puree. If your pureed soup is too thick, you can always add more stock to thin it.

Rosemary White Bean Soup

2 tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 branch fresh rosemary
4 15 oz. cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed clean from their juices
5 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup heavy whipping cream (optional)

In a large stockpot over medium-low heat, warm olive oil and add onions and carrot. Sauté until the onions are translucent and carrot is cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for three more minutes. Add the drained white beans, rosemary branch, chicken stock and bay leaf.

Cover, bring to a boil, and simmer for 30-40 minutes, until the beans are soft. Remove the rosemary branch and bay leaf.

With an immersion blender, puree soup until desired consistency is reached. If using, stir in whipping cream. Add salt and pepper, to taste, and ladle into bowls. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Kale and Potato Galette

I’ve been introduced to kale this winter (Thanks, Bon Appetit). Kale is so good for you, it’s really something worth putting on the menu once a week while it’s in season. This galette is a wonderful way to start, especially if you’re unfamiliar with kale, because the leaves are sautéed with garlic and hide between layers of thin potatoes to surprise your taste buds. The flip maneuver takes a bit of finesse, but it’s easy enough and ensures that both sides are golden and slightly crispy. I served this with a dollop of sour cream and chives, and it was perfect for a light dinner.



Kale and Potato Galette

Recipe courtesy Gourmet

1 lb kale, tough stems and center ribs discarded

1 tablespoon stick (1/2 cup) butter, 6 of the tablespoons melted and cooled

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 lb russet (baking) potatoes (4 medium)

Cook kale in a 4- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Drain well, squeezing handfuls of kale to extract excess moisture, then coarsely chop. Heat 2 tablespoons (unmelted) butter in skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 1 minute.

Add kale, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and sauté, stirring, until kale is tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and clean skillet. Peel potatoes and thinly slice crosswise (1/16 inch thick) with slicer. Working quickly to prevent potatoes from discoloring, generously brush bottom of skillet with some of melted butter and cover with one third of potato slices, overlapping slightly.

Dab potatoes with some of melted butter. Spread half of kale over potatoes and sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Cover with half of remaining potato slices and dab with butter, then top with remaining kale. Sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Top with remaining potatoes and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Brush a sheet of foil with melted butter, then brush galette with any remaining butter and place foil, buttered side down, on top. Place a 10-inch heavy skillet on top of foil to weight galette.

Cook galette over moderate heat until underside is golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove top skillet and foil. Wearing oven mitts, carefully slide galette onto a baking sheet and invert skillet over it. Holding them together, invert galette, browned side up, back into skillet. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat until underside is golden brown and potatoes are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Slide onto a serving plate. Galette can be made 6 hours ahead and cooled, uncovered, then kept, on a baking sheet covered with foil, at room temperature. Remove foil, then reheat in a 425°F oven until heated through and crisp, about 20 minutes.

Farmhouse Butternut Squash Soup

The last time I made butternut squash soup, I took the easy route. Oh, I made a crunchy sage topping, but you couldn’t find me breaking down squash that night. Until recently, I had major problems with my peeler. My old peeler was ok for thin carrot skins, but completely useless when it came to thicker-skinned vegetables. That’s when I turned to the boxed soup version and Costco’s pre-cut bags that spoiled me over the holidays (which, by the way, I completely endorse). Now, armed with my set of three brightly colored blade cutters from Williams-Sonoma, there’s nothing I can’t handle, even after a long day at work.



The slight sweetness of the apple really cuts through the heartiness of the squash, but the flavors blend well. The recipe didn't mention anything about saving the squash seeds, but I rinsed and toasted them, and used them as garnish along with the crispy bacon. A dash of cider vinegar wakes everything up, and even though I only had two slices of bacon in the fridge and no carrots, this soup was still a hit.

Farmhouse Butternut Squash Soup

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

4 bacon slices
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
2 lb butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/2 lb carrots, chopped
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and chopped
3 thyme sprigs
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
3 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar

Cook bacon in a 4- to 6-qt heavy pot over medium heat until crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.

Add garlic and caraway seeds to fat in pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is pale golden, about 1 minute. Add squash, carrots, apple, thyme, bay leaves, broth, water, 3/4 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp pepper and boil, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Discard thyme and bay leaves.

Purée about 4 cups soup in a blender, in batches if necessary, until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Return to pot and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Serve topped with crumbled bacon.

Manchego with Honey Butter Sauce

Write these items on your grocery list: Manchego cheese, honey, and butter. Now, don't think. Just get what I told you and you will not be sorry. Manchego on its own is a delicious cheese, but just imagine the nutty flavor of brown butter and the sweetness of honey harmonizing in your mouth. Plus the light crunch of a water cracker…I can’t believe I almost didn’t post this because it was “just a little appetizer!”

I sat for several minutes thinking of how I could describe this to you, which adjectives could convince you of its magic, but I concluded that words, in this case, are somewhat useless. And the more of them I use, the more you must read before heading to the store for the main ingredient.

Manchego with Honey Butter Sauce

Ingredients 4 tbsp. butter

1 tablespoons honey

Manchego cheese wedge

Sea salt

Directions Melt butter in small saute pan, and cook until it turns a golden brown. Drizzle in honey and stir to incorporate. Pour over cheese wedge and sprinkle with sea salt.

Glazed Lime Cake

Martha Stewart’s Lime Meltaways were the first lime-themed sweets I made that truly captured my attention (alas, I made them before my blogging days so there are no photos to share, but Smitten Kitchen made them so you can see how enticing they really are). Now I can't get enough of these small green wonders.


I’m not in the habit of baking during the week. Baking requires time, energy, accurate measuring, and a certain amount of patience to be successful. When I get home from work and need to magically put ingredients together in under an hour, baking is the last thing on my mind. Now, give me a lazy Saturday or Sunday afternoon and there is always time to precisely follow directions and even enjoy a vanilla latte or a quick magazine read while my treats are baking away in the oven.

Enter Wednesday. It's the one day a week that my husband goes jogging after work, leaving me with plenty of time to bake. Thankfully, this cake is simple. Its ingredients come together in a stand mixer and head straight to the cake pan. During the 35 minutes it bakes you can easily prep ingredients for your main course and finish the glaze that will be drizzled on top. Aside from an extra round of dishes, it didn’t appear to be more work than usual, and ended our evening on a sweet note.

Glazed Lime Cake

Recipe courtesy Bon Appetit

Ingredients

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, room temperature
2 1/2 cups powdered sugar, divided
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/4 cup milk
1 1/3 cups self-rising flour
2 to 3 large limes
1/4 cup sugar

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 8-inch square baking pan. Using electric mixer, cream butter and 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar in large bowl. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Beat in milk, then flour. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top. Bake cake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 35 minutes.

Meanwhile, finely grate enough lime peel to measure 1 tablespoon. Halve limes; squeeze enough juice to measure 1/4 cup. Mix peel, juice, and 1/4 cup sugar in small bowl. Set lime syrup aside.

Using skewer, poke holes all over baked cake. Spoon half of lime syrup (about 3 tablespoons) over hot cake. Cool.

Whisk 1 cup powdered sugar into remaining lime syrup; drizzle over cake. Let stand 1 hour. Cut cake into squares.

Crispy Black Bean Tacos

For a southern Californian, Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes impart a certain comfort-food quality. The cooking style is plentiful, authentic in many venues from taco carts to restaurants, and I've stood in long lines to claim my handmade tortillas at Santa Barbara's La Super Rica Taqueria. Two years ago during a terrible lapse in judgment, I ordered fajitas at a Mexican restaurant in Vermont. Though I'm not an expert, I know fajitas should not be served with carrots, but they were nestled among the onions and peppers, along with ketchup on the side. So sad. I think it's fair to say that there are some things (like clam chowder), that New England does exceptionally well. Mexican isn't one of them.

Fajitas were one of my favorite foods to make when I began cooking more seriously in college. They were easy, flavorful, and involved guacamole – always a good thing. For years it was always the same: grilled chicken, yellow, red and orange peppers, caramelized onions, and sour cream, cheese, and guacamole for garnish. I finally branched out to steak fajitas, but have recently put them aside (Ok, I make them once a month instead of once a week) and have been more adventurous with dishes like beer battered fish tacos (very California), and these Crispy Black Bean tacos.

It’s also helpful that I actually eat black beans now. Beans didn't appeal to me growing up, but over the years I’ve seen the light. These little tacos disappear fast but are deeply satisfying. The shell is crisp, slaw crunchy and sweet, and feta mild but very complimentary. I was so absorbed in eating them that I missed a solid five minutes of American Idol. Thank goodness it’s now possible to rewind live television.

Crispy Black Bean Tacos

Ingredients

1 15-ounce can black beans, drained
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
5 teaspoons olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 cups coleslaw mix
2 green onions, chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
4 white or yellow corn tortillas
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
Bottled chipotle hot sauce or other hot sauce

Preparation

Place beans and cumin in small bowl; partially mash. Mix 2 teaspoons olive oil and lime juice in medium bowl; add coleslaw, green onions, and cilantro and toss to coat. Season slaw to taste with salt and pepper.

Heat 3 teaspoons olive oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add tortillas in single layer. Spoon 1/4 of bean mixture onto half of each tortilla; cook 1 minute. Fold tacos in half. Cook until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Fill tacos with feta and slaw. Pass hot sauce alongside.

Wine Resolutions

Before we get too far into the new year, I must say something about resolutions. Oh, I can hear the groans. But don't worry, I have one resolution you won't be able to resist trying. Earlier this month, the Wall Street Journal ran a column outlining 20 new things to try this year – all with wine at the center of each task.

I’m planning to tack this list to my fridge and cross off every one before December 31, 2009. As I do, I’ll post my results throughout the year, and invite you join in. Today I triumphantly crossed out #18: Buy a new corkscrew. Turns out the one I have is less than a year old, and not worn enough to warrant finding a replacement.

For 2009, a To-Do List for Wine

Taste a flight, find a new store and lose that old corkscrew. A checklist of 20 things to try this year.

By DOROTHY J. GAITER AND JOHN BRECHER

Happy new year! Here's a checklist of 20 things to do this year that will make wine more fun, whether you are just beginning your wine journey or are far along the road.

1) Try a Wine From a Different Country (4/14/09)
A country whose wines are new to you. Have you ever had a wine from Croatia? Uruguay? Georgia? Next time you see one, grab it. They're out there.

2) Go to a Wine Bar and Have a Flight of Wine (5/28/09)
If you have been to some wine bars before, try a wine bar you haven't visited.

3) Order the Cheapest Wine on a Restaurant's Wine List (9/29/09)
Really, just screw up your courage and do it. Restaurateurs know that many people won't order the cheapest wine on the list for fear of appearing miserly, which is why the second-cheapest wine on the list is often the worst deal. The cheapest wine can sometimes be a pretty good deal.

4) Open a Sparkler at Home for No Reason at All (12/27/09)
There are so many reasonably priced bubblies these days that they can be cheaper than ordinary Merlot or Chardonnay. Put a bottle in the fridge and open it for dinner. Yes, then it will seem like a special occasion, but that's the point.

5) Take Notes on a Fine Wine From Beginning to End (2/26/09)
Make a notation of the time when you open it, then drink slowly and take notes throughout. Whether it's a fine white Burgundy or a good Cabernet, the wine will change with time, air and warmth. When you go back over your notes, you might be amazed at the changes. It's like pictures of children: You know they've grown up, but it's only when you look at the old pictures that you realize just how much.

6) Have a Sauternes (12/27/09)
This -- the real thing, from France's Bordeaux region -- is the classic sweet wine. Yes, it will most likely cost you some real money, but, fortunately, they do come in half bottles. Still, Sauternes is underappreciated and therefore, in its own way, a good deal. There are few more life-affirming wines, especially with some age, and even that half bottle could last several nights, making it more cost-effective.

7) Have a Blind Tasting (12/27/09)
Maybe you want to go whole-hog and invite over a few friends and ask everyone to bring, say, a 2005 Bordeaux under $20 in a brown-paper lunch bag. But doing that at home with your significant other and just two bottles of the same kind of wine is also fun and instructive. See our column about doing this.

8) Organize Your Labels (12/27/09)
We've heard from many people over the years who have saved wine labels, but just keep them in a big pile somewhere. Get a photo album and put them in. Maybe jot a little note for the special ones about where you drank it or why you liked it. Looking at them will bring back savory memories.

9) Visit the Closest Winery to Your Home (12/29/09)
It's amazing to us how many people haven't visited the winery next-door. Now that there are commercial wineries in all 50 states, there is likely to be a winery near you. If you have visited the closest winery, drop in to the second-closest, and so on. You'll be amazed at the diversity of wines and styles in your own neck of the woods.

10) Attend a Winemaker’s Dinner at a Restaurant (12/27/09)
Keep your eyes open and you will find plenty. They are not only fun, but often can be a very good value. Sometimes wine stores sponsor these, too.

11) Have Fun With Stemware (12/27/09)
Experiment. Try a good sparkling wine in a regular wine glass. Pour the same fine wine into two different kinds or sizes of glasses. We all have our “everyday” glasses, but they can get boring if you don’t watch out. Engage all of your senses when you drink wine.

12) Find a New Wine Store (10/30/09)
Buy a bottle at a wine store where you have never shopped before. With all of the good shops these days, there’s no reason not to find a caring, patient, knowledgeable merchant. Even if you have a great merchant, every store is different, so give another store a try.

13) Try a Varietal You’ve Never Had From a U.S. Winery (4/27/09)
American wineries make all sorts of interesting wines that are hidden among the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Maybe you’ve never tried Norton, or a Melon made in the U.S. Now’s the time.

14) Either: Have 12 Different Bottles in the House at Once (4/27/09)
Even now, most Americans don’t have a single bottle of wine in the house. Buying a mixed case is cost-effective (because you will likely get a discount) and fun. And, if you are going to do this, think about getting one of those little wine coolers, which are widely available for $150 and less.

Or: Drink Up

If you already have a wine collection, mark those bottles that really need to be drunk and then actually drink them. OK, we know you won’t drink all of them, but if you drink just five of them this year, you can check this one off. (No, we’re not sure we can do this one, either, but we’ll give it a good try.)

15) Go Crazy on a Wine Pairing for Dinner Some Night (12/27/09)
Try a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with steak, a Ripasso from Italy with Southern fried chicken, a sparkling Shiraz with barbecue. Just smash outside that box and see what happens.

16) Try an Older White (12/27/09)
Many fine whites age beautifully, from white Burgundy to Riesling. Well-cared-for Muscadet can be beautiful for more than a decade. At a restaurant two weeks ago, we had a 1991 Gewürztraminer from Alsace (Domaine Zind Humbrecht “Clos Windsbuhl” Hunawihr) that was so effortlessly rich, well-balanced and satisfying that at one point we called it “the essence of wine.” If you have a merchant who offers well-tended older whites, or know of a restaurant that offers them, try one. If not, buy a good white and hide it somewhere for a while. (You can check this off if you’ve put a good white away somewhere and haven’t touched it by Dec. 31.)

17) Try a Type of Wine You Think You Don’t Like (2/14/09)
Are you sure you don’t like German wine? Have you tried today’s Rioja? If there’s any type of wine you haven’t tasted for at least two years, get a bottle. Things change, including your taste.

18) Get a New Corkscrew (1/20/09)
C’mon, we know that old corkscrew still kind of works and you’ve been through so much with it. We, too, hold on to corkscrews way too long. But give in and get a new one.

19) Serve a Dessert Wine to Guests (12/27/09)
Maybe your friends don’t think they like dessert wines and maybe you don’t, either. But try an Icewine from Canada or a Muscat from the U.S. or something else along those lines (serve with fruit, nuts or cookies) and watch the wine disappear.

20) Shatter Your Price Limit (2/26/09)
At least once this year, whether at a store or a restaurant, go above your usual limit for wine if there is a bottle that looks especially interesting to you. And the opposite applies as well: If you really believe there are no good wines under a certain price, try one.

Extra Credit
If you have never dropped us a note to say hello or ask a question, don’t be shy. Our email address is wine@wsj.com and while we can’t respond to all notes, we do our best.

Printed in The Wall Street Journal, page W4

Fettuccine with Butternut Squash and Radicchio

In case it hasn’t been clear from recent posts, I have a deep, deep fondness for pasta. I’m also slightly obsessed with butternut squash. So when Gourmet featured this recipe in their "Quick Kitchen" section of January's issue, I was intrigued. This dish is, essentially, fall in a bowl. I actually savored, slowly, each bite I took. It also didn't hurt that the orange and purple hues were lovely to look at on the plate.



It is surprisingly wonderful, and I say surprisingly because radicchio has a habit of being bitter and unfriendly, but its strong bite is softened by adding sweet butternut squash. As if that weren’t exquisite enough, texture and flavor are only enhanced by adding toasted, butter coated pine nuts. Oh, did I mention the butter is browned? Well, the butter is browned, making the nut flavor even more complex.



Fettuccine with Butternut Squash and Radicchio

Adapted from Gourmet

2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup pine nuts
1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 2 ½ cups)
1 medium head of radicchio, cored and thinly sliced
1 lb. fettuccine or other long, flat pasta
Parmesan cheese, for garnish

1.    Melt butter and oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pine nuts and cook, stirring, until nuts and butter have browned, 1-3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer nuts to a bowl and set aside.
2.    Add squash to skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and just tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add radicchio, pinches of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until wilted and just tender, about 3 minutes.
3.    Meanwhile, cook pasta in a pot of boiling, salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and add to skillet. Toss pasta with vegetables, adding cooking liquid in ½ cup increments, stirring over low heat until eheated through.
4.    Serve topped with pine nuts and cheese.